Monday, May 19, 2008

I've got a Visual!

Dancing babies! trad dress doing the traditional shoulder poppy dance
even blind sheperds deserve to learn!

i think it's really made of skittles

i found these pieces of wood that fit on my fingers, so i made finger puppets. victoria thought i should make an angry face for the camera, so she insulted me. my apparent response was bafflement...


CRISIS!! NOOOOO... south africa is falling apart, no potatoes...



I pass this on my way to school, this building was going to be a hotel built by some german guy, but before it ever opened the german was killed and the structure burnt down... ho, hum.

Sunday, May 18, 2008

the death of swine

16 may

i thought when they cut its neck, the blood would gush, like in the movies. instead, even though its head was half off, it came out in a single arced stream, like a drinking fountain, actually. the pig kept squealing and grunting even when there was nothing left to grunt from/with. when its head was off, laying in the grass, the body kept moving. it reminded me of a cat luxuriating in the sun, stretching its limbs out, reaching, or like a drugged mental patient fighting off its handlers in slow motion. or like the death throes of a pig with its head cut off. whatever. it kept moving for a whole nother minute or two with no head. it felt like 10 minutes though. i could see the trachea still opening and closing in the neck stump. i decided it was telling me its last words, which were that i should eat more mangoes so i can feed the delicious pits/skins to its children. i tried to tell it that there are no more mangoes because it's winter time, but the pig wouldn't listen to reason. headless pigs can be like that.
then they cut out its balls. there something about it they burst/get cut while the pig is being butchered than the whole animal isn't good to eat anymore. then they put its body in a big tub and dumped boiling water on it, then pulled out its hair/scraped it off with rocks. the pig's head was just lying there in the grass, looking like a halloween mask. my gut instinct to poke things with sticks kicked in, and i really wanted to prod the head. the men were all busy around there though and i didn't want to get in the way, so i refrained. ok so writing that made me regret my lack of action, so i just went back and nudged it with my toe. the nose is all squishy, adn its cheek feels like when i found my puppy and petted it, thinking it was asleep but it was really dead. a pig's neck is incredibly thick, almost thicker than its stomach. and its brains were kind of spilling out the back of its skull. i looked for the spine amidst all the bloody flesh, but i couldn't see it.
After scraping off most the hair with rocks, they busted out a package of lady bics. it was funny to see four old men meticulously shaving a giant headless pig with little pink and purple plastic razors.
The vegans/vegetarians are probably grossed out by me right now, and some meat eaters, too, but i had to watch. turning away doesn't make the thing not happen, it just means i'll know less about what actually went on. if i was an imaginative person i'd be fine with that, because i could fill in the gaps myself, but i'm not all that imaginative, really. i need facts and memories to fill in the blank spaces. and how can i learn new things,anyway, without poking them with sticks/my toe? i think meat eaters that won't participate, even passively, in killing an animal are trying to avoid responsibility for what goes on before the meat reaches their plate. i'm not really the type to flinch, anyway. i remember when i was in elementary school i wanted to be either a horse trainer, a teacher, or a neuroscientist, and my 5th grade teacher told me she could see me as a brain surgeon, and i was like, hey thanks! and then she continued "...yeah, i bet you could cut open someone's head without even flinching". i was sort of taken aback, i remember, because adults aren't usually that blunt with kids. (Also, for the record, that teacher was a petty bitch who didn't like me because i critisized her teaching methods). But hey, maybe she's right.
The hairless pig (did you know boy pigs have nipples, just like boy humans? i didn't, though it makes sense) is now going to ride with me to Maseru, where it'll be butchered. i'm kind of sad they aren't doing it here, because then i could learn how an animal is gutted. The pig's eventual destination is Johannesburg, where it, along with a sheep, some chickens, and a few buckets of joala (sorghum based moonshine) will cater the party for my m'e's youngest daughter's college graduation. (her youngest child (out of 8 total) is two years younger than the oldest grandchild, btw)
p.s. i'm eating pumpkin seeds right now and they're SO GOOD. mom i love you.

Minutae, Mostly

Mid-May

It seems like i've entered a new trend. When i injure myself i'll injure the corresponding body part on my other side within a few days. At first i cut up my thumb while chopping vegetables, then the next day my right thumb split open, entirely unreasonably. i didnt cut it or anything! ugh. so since band aids suck i had to wrap both thumbs first in band aids then in scotch tape. with the lack of opposable digits i was forced back an evolutionary step, and looked like a retard for a week or so. then a few days ago i fell and scraped the crap out of my knee, and ripped my tights, and today on teh way to work i fell again and scraped my other knee. at least i'm not a catholic, or i'd have a hard time praying in this state.

in other news, i'm now the proud owner of 7 pairs of crotchless panties. a pervert has entered my household and i can't seem to get rid of it. I have a mouse (or rat) the size of a small warthog with very refined tastes in which pieces/parts of my clothing it likes to eat. I've relocated both Vroomba (momma cat) and Parkinsons (or parker, the kitten) into my house at night, and the dumb things don't even wake up when the warthog stomps through the room, knocking stuff over and chewing into my tupperware. totally useless. and i leave for 5 days on friday, and i'm afraid it'll consolidate its ownership of my home even more while i'm gone.

Oh! and i suppose i can tell you all how i'm actually helping around here, sometimes. A week or so ago there was a "children's health day" a couple hours away from wher i live, put on by the unfortunately named ngo of notre dame alums: Touching Tiny Lives. 8 peace corps volunteers were there to help out. it was a bit of a nightmare, but ended up ok. there was a huge turn out, and the nurses from the hospital were 3 hours late, so the bo-me (women) were about to riot. the plan was to screen teh 0-5 yr olds for malnutrition while their mothers were being counseled/tested for HIV. what ended up happening was 3 of us went outside to do the screening there because HIVness was taking forever. so vic, klein, and i were little bubbles with our scales and MUAC strips inside of a crazy mob of pushing yelling, non english speaking women and babies. It looked worse than it was. I just let the bo-me fight it out and took whatever medical record book was closest, and then found the corresponding child. I was the lucky one with the lbs scale, so i had to convert each weight into kg in my head. my measurements were a bit general... 3 other pcvs were on crowd control and i'm really glad i wasn't them. i'll take a screaming baby over masses of incomprehending impatient old ladies any day. About 300 m'e and kids came and i think i screened between 70-100 yound ones, and only had to refer 15-20 of them to ttl for malnutrition. that's a pretty good ratio. i have no idea what teh HIV+ stats were because they went to get tested after they saw me. i'm kind of glad i don't know because i have a feeling it's a depressing statistic. anyone under 5 years old with HIV is incredibly sad. it just seems so doomed.

as requested, here are my plans for the near future:
2 more weeks of school, then 1 1/2 of exams, (i've gotten depressingly little done this quarter) then i'm migrating down to maseru for the winter around 13th June. I'll have regular internet from mid june to mid july, and also will be unable to receive mail sent to my thaba tseka address. the 3rd week of june and 1st of july i will be teaching science workshops for teh teachers college. the week between those i will be gallavanting somewhere. then the 2nd/3rd weeks of july will be NAMIBIA! woo! then i'll be back in the mountains around my birthday (30th july for those of you interested in sending me presents), and school starts up again around 6 august.


ways in which i've Made a Difference this week:
1. i taught one class the word 'farting' (it was necessary, they were calling it 'quinching' which is totally lame) and another class the verb 'to suck' (in the "man that sucks" context, rather than "science doesn't suck" or "i taunted the children by sucking on a lollipop and not sharing")

2. i finally convinced my students (at least to just agree with me) that ALL snakes have backbones, even though you can wrap them around your finger.

Back Log

End April- Beginning of May:

It’s just so tiring, wondering constantly what I’m dong here and if I’ll make it through, I want so badly to go ‘home’. I don’t want to spend two years pining for something else. I’m so used to getting what I want, when I want it though, so I suppose this is strengthening. Besides, I chose to do this. That’s what’s really keeping me here. If I was in this position not by choice, I’d be doing al sorts of work to get out of it. Hm, this sounds worse than I mean it to. I’m not miserable here or anything, I just miss home so so so so so much. I need to get my head on straight and stop thinking about Portland as home. Integration, that’s the word, right? I need to actually make an effort to learn this damn language, rather than wait for comprehension diffusion to occur and one day I’ll wake up and understand what’s going on around me. It’s really lonely being excluded from conversation all day every day. It’s depressing to have children shout “lekhooa” (derogatory term for white person) at me when I walk around town, and it’s depressing to see how little I’m getting through to my students. I’m just shouting at a wall so much of the time. It’s depressing how many of my students are failing their classes, and how difficult it is for them to succeed in this outdated colonial-era styled school system. It’s depressing that my students, co-workers, and friends are attending funerals for loved ones almost every weekend, and it’s depressing to watch my neighbor die of aids; I feel like I can count more of her bones every time I see her. Two of my students have already dropped out of school because they’re too sick and need the money for medication rather than school fees. What can I do in the face of all this? I know I am helping, and am useful here, and yes I know the answer to my question: just keep going, do my best I can, etc. Saying that is a whole lot easier than doing it. There’s just this heaviness, a sadness that’s settled into my chest, and I’m dragging myself around. It’ll pass, I know, it’s just be nice it if passed sooner rather than later. On a more positive note, my dear Madeline’s school fell apart and went defunct around her (that’s not the positive part) so she had to move her site, so now instead of a 2 day journey away, she’s only 2 hours! Woot! And in july we’re going to Namibia and Botswana, and then it’s my birthday, and then I’m sure something else exciting will happen, such as the appearance of cheese in my life, or maybe a letter.
OK, It’s time for another edition of…

Things I Know Now, But Didn’t Before
1. According to an unnerving number of my students, an exoskeleton is “the bone of every person that died before”
2. Unrefrigerated salami will cause me to vomit more than 12 times in a 10-hour period
3. When the ambassador’s entourage is exclaiming over/taking pictures of an elusive sprinkbok, it will ruin the moment to mention that you see them on menus in South Africa all the time.
4. While cats are fun when they belong to someone else, I am not a fan of having one live with me, even if it is a cute fuzzy kitten
5. Feeding a cute fuzzy kitten pasta will give it smelly gas and bad diarrhea, thusly nullifying its positive qualities
6. Raspberry Jam + Feta + Spinach + Sweet Pickles + Honey Mustard + Pringles = Best Sammich EVAR (We went on a shopping spree at the Spar in S. Africa, and just put everything we bought on bread. Ahhh heaven)
7. Indian Summer is a horrible movie and Bill Paxton is not capable of pulling off a mullet
8. Trying to get friends to sleep over at your house all the time because they make the best space heaters can be construed as ‘a little creepy’
9. Ninja baths are >17 times more fulfilling than regularly sanctioned baths
10. Loose wrap skirts are neither appropriate nor professional to wear to work on a windy day
11. Thinking I can curse as much as I want around students/ neighbors/ coworkers/ random passers by because they won’t understand American curses is misinformed, because they tend to comprehend at very inopportune moments
12. Similar to when working with an open flame or printing presses, it is inadvisable to wear trailing scarves/ dangly earrings when attempting to weigh/screen for malnutrition 70-100 babies and small children, because they will latch on and strangle you/ forcible remove your earrings
13. One should not go against instinct and try to weigh demon children, because they will pee on you
14. Sticking mystery fireworks in a fire pit after they fail to light can be fun, as long as one is nimble (a la the chimney sweeps in Mary Poppins) and is able to jump out of the way of shooting jets of colored flame. [If you’re wondering: yes, I am both nimble and quick]